How does retinol work?

Retinol for skin

Retinol is one of the most well-known skincare ingredients on the market. It’s a vitamin A derivative and a go-to skincare ingredient when it comes to diminishing fine lines and wrinkles, as well as acne. It’s important to understand the varieties of retinol, how to use it and what type is best for your skin.

If you’re curious and want to learn more about this powerful ingredient and how it works on skin, look no further.

What is retinol?

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative and an antioxidant that promotes collagen, fades dark spots, brightens dull skin and treats acne. Retinol is available over-the-counter (OTC) and is the less concentrated version of a retinoid.

Retinoids are a more potent form of vitamin A that are mainly available by prescription and may cause more skin irritation in comparison to retinol. Many refer to retinol and retinoids as the same thing, but they aren’t — the OTC version of a prescription retinoid is retinol.

What’s the difference between retinoids, retinol and Retin-A?

Retin-A and retinol are different forms of retinoids. Retin-A is the brand name for tretinoin, a prescription retinoid. Retinol needs to convert to retinoic acid on the skin to work, whereas prescription-strength Retin-A is already a retinoic acid, so it works faster. The highest strength retinol product is still a lower strength than the weakest prescription retinoid.

Consult a dermatologist to see which retinoid best fits your needs. Some popular prescription retinoids are tazarotene (Tazorac), adapalene (Differin) and isotretinoin (Accutane).

How retinol works

Most skincare ingredients work by removing the dead skin from the epidermis (outer layer of the skin), but retinol goes deep into the dermis (middle layer of your skin) to do its work.

In the dermis, retinol helps neutralize free radicals while increasing the production of collagen and elastin. The increase in collagen and elastin plumps the skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and pores.

Retinol also has an exfoliating effect on the epidermis and removes dead skin, resulting in improved texture, tone and reduction of age spots and hyperpigmentation. For those with oily skin, mild exfoliation can lead to control of excess sebum production.

Retinol can help treat acne and acne scars. Retinol forms comedolytic agents to prevent and reduce the formation of papules such as blackheads, whiteheads and blemishes. For those with severe cystic acne, your dermatologist might also prescribe isotretinoin, a prescription-only retinoid. It decreases the size and formation of bacteria of sebaceous glands on the skin to reduce the formation of acne.

Benefits of retinol

Retinol is the gold standard when it comes to skincare. It’s used to help the skin by reducing:

• Fine lines

• Wrinkles

• Photoaging such as sunspots, freckles and other signs of sun damage

• Hyperpigmentation such as melasma

• Loss of collagen

• Large pores

• Acne

Side effects of retinol

The Food and Drug Administration has approved retinoids for use but be cautious of some of the potential side effects. If you have dry or sensitive skin, using too much retinol may cause irritation. People with skin conditions like eczema and rosacea are generally advised against using retinol. Topical retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

On rare occasions, the use of strong prescription retinoids has been linked to swelling, hives and difficulty breathing. If you’re taking supplements containing vitamin A, consult your doctor before using any retinol products, as too much vitamin A can be toxic and may cause liver damage.

If you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, dermatologists advise against using retinol products, as they may cause birth defects.

How to use retinol

Beginners should start with OTC retinol before trying a prescription-strength retinoid, as it may cause the skin to feel more sensitive and cause redness and irritation. There is no set age to start integrating retinol into your routine, but it’s best to go slow to avoid irritating the skin. It’s recommended to start with retinol a couple of times a week at night and slowly increase use to every night once your skin can tolerate it.

It’s advised to only use one product at a time containing retinol. If you’re using other active ingredients like glycolic acid regularly, it’s safe to alternate nights with retinol. Due to the potential risk of sun sensitivity, retinoids should be applied at night.

If you have acne issues, dermatologists can prescribe retinoids as early as your late teens. Apply retinol consistently to see the maximum benefits; it may take up to 3 months to notice how retinol is affecting your skin.

Who can use retinol?

Almost anyone can use retinol unless you have sensitive skin or are pregnant/nursing. If you have skin concerns such as acne, dark spots, fine lines and wrinkles, you can integrate a retinol product into your skincare routine.

Best retinol products (updated 2025 and may not match original article)

RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Serum

This drugstore favorite can visibly reduce the deepest wrinkles and make your skin look smooth and firm in just 4 weeks. It has a mineral complex to provide hydration.

Shani Darden Skin Care Retinol Reform This popular serum has retinol to improve the look of lines, dark spots and blemishes and lactic acid to reduce inflammation and improve elasticity. It's cruelty-free and paraben-free.

Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum This Murad serum combines three retinol technologies of a fast-acting retinoid, a time-released retinol and a retinol booster to help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and boost radiance in 2 weeks. It also has hyaluronic acid for extra hydration.

Juice Beauty Anti-Wrinkle Retinol Overnight Serum This vegan retinol serum prevents visible signs of aging and fatigue. It also has jojoba, coconut and shea butters to provide hydration. It's very sustainable, as the ingredients are organic, and the packaging is 100% recyclable.

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Overnight Serum This multitasking serum has retinol, ferulic acid and niacinamide to help skin's natural repair process while encouraging healthy skin cell turnover and creating a glowing complexion.

First Aid Beauty 0.3% Retinol Complex Serum This formula is made for beginner retinol users, as it has 0.3% pure retinol. It also has peptides to help with fine lines.

StriVectin Super-C Retinol Brighten & Correct Vitamin C Serum In addition to having the benefits of retinol to improve signs of aging, this serum also has vitamin C to brighten the skin and protect it from free radicals. This non-sticky formula works well under makeup.

Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum

This extra-strength retinoid serum has a 6.5% solution of stabilized retinoid blends and botanical retinol alternative to help with wrinkles, and hydrating honey and CoQ10 to prevent loss of firmness and elasticity.

This article was originally published on Best Reviews in 2021.